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Wayne Dalton idrive Troubleshooting Tip #3 - Check All Connectors

Ok heres the story. First I changed the battery ohen the inside actuator station
which caused the matching ID to be changed. When the button was pressed the opener would chirp and click the relay and do nothing. I checked the fuse. Then I switched boards(two doors) viola the board was fine. So what now? I reinstalled the board(s). I reprogrammed the remotes to the opener (pull the rope hold red button 10 seconds and push remote button)Now both would only open partway but they did open so assignment was the problem. how to fix the partial open problem(during install sequence). Checking the board install, both were
not plugged into the rear connector which is part of the door distance worm gear.
after the connection was made BINGO! it worked.
Moral to the story? switching the battery changed the program assignment for the opener to the button controller(s).

Tue, 05 Oct 2010 10:15:09 +0000

My story is very similar to yours, except I had to buy a replacement transistor for my board ($6) and have a technician at a local music store desolder, and solder it on for me. ($20)He did a very clean job. When I put the board back in I did not do it properly, and it would not work. I was getting an estimate for a opener replacement, but the person that was going to do it, put the board in correctly, and the unit works fine. For 7 years it had worked fine, and I was surprised when it stopped. WD sent me a new motor based on the noises it made, and the installer only charges me $75, he tightened some hinges, and tweaked the door. His big interest seemed to be to get a door working for me, not just selling me a new unit. I paid him $100 and felt that was a deal. It was an inconvenience, but or $126 I got it fixed, and a new motor for a 6 year old iDrive. I hope it works well for awhile.

Tom C
Sat, 30 Oct 2010 23:55:53 +0000

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