Fixing the Torsion Springs on Wayne Dalton Torque Master
I am in the process of replacing the torsion springs (RH & LH) in my Wayne Dalton Torque Master. The LH spring slid right out of the torque tube with ease. Since it slid out so easily and didn't seem to be attached to anything inside the torque tube (i.e. to stop rotation when applying load), I assume this means the spring was broke; the end of the LH spring (the end inside the torque tube) appears to have fractured.
I can't remove the RH spring out of the torque tube.
I am having the exact same issue with my Torquemaster. The left spring is broke and am unable to remove right spring or broken part of left. Any suggestions on how to remove these springs from the tube (and install the new ones)?
I can't remove the RH spring out of the torque tube.
I am attemptimg to replace both springs on my 16-foot door. I have removed the tube but cannot budge either spring. When I tilt one end of the tube, both springs freely slide to the other end...same when I tilt the opposite end, which means that both springs are free. The problem appears to be the nylon sleeve...it appears to be adhering to the inside of the tube. Was told by local shop that a tool is required to remove the springss. ??????
Success at last. The culprit in this spring removal problem is the nylon tube that gets "glued" to the inside walls of the shaft. I used a small diameter steel rod to pry the tube away from the shaft. Then I used needle-nose pliers to s-l-o-w-l-y extract the nylon tube. The cam on the inside end of the springs gets hung up on the tube. Took two days but finally figured out. No help from Wayne Dalton or any of the installers.
Good job on figuring out the trick. And thanks for sharing your solution. I'm sure it will help other visitors who come along.
What a timing! I need to replace mine as well and I'm glad I found this thread. Thanks for sharing. Although, for me the right side spring broke into two pieces and I was able to pull out the outer half. The other half is stuck inside and its not even moving freely. Any idea how can I pull it out?
Check to see if the nylon sleeve is still in the tube. The cam on the inside half of the spring is catching on the sleeve. If this is the case, you will have to pry the sleeve away from the tube's inside, then slowly extract the sleeve with pliers. Sholud not be too difficult since you will have more room to work with inside the tube.
Excellent Post, taking out the nylon tube worked perfectly. Thanks for saving me a ton of time figuring it out!
Hey! Great post!!
Your problem is probably not with the springs, but with the sprocket on which the cable winds. Thought my springs were bad...bought 2...only to find that the sprocket? end was split. This allows the spring to slip, causing your cable to jump off.
I removed the nylon sleeve and pulled the spring hard but it could not come out. Any other idea? Regards,
Finally I managed to remove the springs from the shaft tube by keep dropping the shaft on driveway until the other end of each spring set loose from the tube. The unbroken spring came out easier because it is heavier with more impact from the drops. My broken spring portion was too small (very light) and the drops did not help to set it loose; After removing the unbroken spring, I inserted the broken part of the spring into the other end of the shaft tube. I lifted that end high to allow the heavy broken spring move freely inside the tube and pushed the stuck spring out through the other end of the tube. Make sure remove the nylon sleeves first.
That is great. Sound like a slide hammer could help with the smaller broken spring.
I sucessfully removed the RH end cap by turning the worm gear bolt until '0' met up with the pointer; however, the LH won't rotate any further than '10'. The worm gear bolt will still turn, and I can see the teeth inside turning, but the end cap won't go any further, and won't come off since it won't get to '0'. Any ideas?
OK, I got the end cap off, and I found the black plastic gear inside the cap was broken. Could this be the whole problem? I had assumed the springs were broken. My cable doesn't come unwound, but the door won't open with the opener, comes up about 6", goes back down. Door (very thin aluminum 2-car) is very difficult to push up with the opener disengaged. Does this sound like broken springs, or possibly just this broken plastic gear causing the whole problem?
Well, I just completed my spring replacement last night and this thread saved me a ton of time. I had the same experience as most. Relieving the pressure on the two ends went off without a hitch, Removing the torsion tube was also very easy. I got to the point of removing the unbroken spring and it would not move. Before I continued, I used my favorite search engine and found this site. I thought the sleeves that were in the packaging (I did not have directions) were shipping materials at first to protect the spring. Anyway, long story short... I removed the plastic sleeve from the RH side and both springs slid out without issue. I then moved to the left side to remove the other plastic sleeve. I could not get the sleeve out of the LH side initially because I could not reach it with the spring in place. Removing it from the other end solved that problem. I found the instructions for installing the springs online as well and followed them.
I did uncover one piece that I have not seen mentioned on this forum. When my springs came out the right side, I also had a hollow metal rod come out as well as two white plastic pieces. The rod was about 3 feet long and did not look to provide any structural value to the whole setup. I believe this rod is a spacer for the two springs, but I can not confirm that. Unfortunately, the rod did not fit between the two springs that I installed and the rod would just role around inside. Since I believed this is just a spacer, I decided to leave it out. The springs are fine and the door operates just like it did before. If anyone knows the overall purpose of this rod or whether it needs to be in the tube, please let me know. I still have it and can figure out a way to install it if necessary.
Thanks for all the great tips, you guys turned a frustrating project into a non-event with you list of suggestions and techniques on replacing the springs.
This is how I got the stuck pieces out of the torque tube:
My torque tube is 8 feet long. I used a longer piece of 3/4" PVC tube and hand-hammered it down one end of the torque tube until all of the stuck pieces (broken spring, nylon tubing and all) were forced out of the other end. This took me about 10 minutes and worked well. Hope this helps somebody.
I had the same problem. The directions from Wayne Dalton were spot on. Gently tap the aluminum tube while pulling the non broken spring and it will slowly work it way out to where you can grab the white nylon protector and it is easy after that. The left side (broken for me) easily slid out the right side by lifting the left side as high as you can. This worked for me hope it will for you.
Awesome tips, thank you! Here is a great step-by-step guide that also helped me a lot:
Oh, one more thing. If you are tackling this project, don't pull the cables out of the cable drums - you can just leave them attached and pull the drums off the ends of the tube. If you already pulled the cables out (like I did), when it's time to thread them back in, you can pop the bearing out of the cable drum. I wish I had known this a week ago..
Is the hollow metal rod that falls out with the spring necessary? I put the new springs in and kinda forgot about the hollow rod. and there was also one round nylon cylindrical piece about 2 inches long and 3/8" diameter.
I have yet to attempt this yet but will later today when my four kids get to bed but i found this page which seems to address the whole process pretty well including the problem everyone is having with the sleeve getting stuck. here it is http://ddmgaragedoors.com/diy-instructions/torquemaster-tors . . .
I am having trouble getting the drums off the end of the torque tube. Do they just need to be lightly hammered off the end or should I apply some type of lubricant to make them slide off easier. They are plastic so I am afraid that I might damage them when I hit them to remove them.
Any help would be appreciated.
I also had problems getting the springs to come out of the torque tube. What I ended up doing was to tie a short length of 1/8" nylon cord between the garage door frame and the spring. Then as I pulled the torque tube gently away from the garage (i.e. put a small amount of tension pulling the spring) I tapped the torque tube with a hammer. Once it released, it came quickly out of the tube (so do not pull too hard!). To get the broken part of the spring out, I slid the wooden handle of a broom (it unscrews from the head) through the tube. The weight of the handle quickly broke it loose.
I got new springs to replace the old springs but found them to be shorter. Does this matter or did they send the wrong size springs? Since the door weight was not printed on the label, the girl at the parts store had use the dimensions of my door to determine the weight after I emailed a picture of the door.
change the springs to regular torsion springs. Longer life and easy maint.
Replaced spring went well tried to tighten springs left went well right stopped after about 10 turns took the down lubed. Everything put back together did same thing after about 5 turns . What's up!!!!!
Oh my gosh! This post saved my bacon!! I was in the situation where both the broken and unbroken springs were stuck. I got the sleeve out of the broken end and still no dice. Until I read further down where the guy tapped the end of the torque tube without the sleeve on a hard surface. I did this and both springs quickly came out! After that, I simply removed the sleeve from the other end and went about the rest of the install.
Many, many thanks!!!
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Title: Wayne Dalton Torque Master Torsion Springs will not grip
Title: How to Determine Whether Spring is Broken on Wayne Dalton TorqueMaster?
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