While driving my 2001 Subaru Impreza 2.5 RS to work this morning, the "CHECK ENGINE" light came on. It persisted throughout the rest of the day. As soon as I got home, I pulled the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) using the Actron CP9175 OBD II AutoScanner.
I had bought this AutoScanner last year when my "CHECK ENGINE" light came one. Back then, it reported that the catalytic converter has failed. But when I cleared the code, it never came back. I figured that the catalytic converter will fail within the next year.
So that's the code I expected to pull tonight while working on my car. But surprisingly, it wasn't the catalytic converter failed code. Instead I got the following on the AutoScanner:
What the hell does this mean!? Looks like I'll be doing quite a bit of research tonight.
I found the attached diagnostic instruction for my car. Going to try it now.
Well, it's hard to tell. The resistance kept jumping around. Didn't know measuring resistance could be this hard!
Anyway, I plug the sensor connector back in, then cleared the code. Drove into work today. The "CHECK ENGINE" didn't come on. The AutoScanner showed that all code passed.
But it's only 6 miles to work . . . so I'll let you know if it ever comes back.
I've been driving back and forth between home and work. The CHECK ENGINE light hasn't came back. So maybe it was just a fluke . . .
The error code came back last week. I cleared it. This morning it came back again. So it looks like I'll be replacing the sensor soon.
I sent an e-mail to the Subaru dealer where I generally order parts from. The Subaru knock sensor part number is 22060AA070 and it costs $74.64. Strangely, the person who responded said, "CODE PO325 is for knock sensor on 2001 2.2L and 2.5L". I sent the following reply for an explanation:
"I see. So you are saying that the code P0328 I got is not an indicator that my knock sensor is bad? What is generally the problem related to P0328? I appreciate any help you can provide. Thanks."
The reply I got is "There is no engine code for P0328. PO325 is for knock sensor 1 (there is only one knock sensor on your vehicle)." That is really interesting, because I centainly got a P0328 code. And s search on Google indicated other Impreza owners who had gotten the game P0328 code.
Anyway, I purchased a Niehoff Ignition Detonation (Knock) Sensor WA1751 from Kragen for $71.99. It is suppose to be the right part for my car. I will pick it up later today. I will keep you posted.
I got the sensor last week and replaced it in the car. So far, the trouble code hasn't came back. The following photo shows the knock sensor screwed into the engine block under the throttle body cables.
I used the following tools to remove and replace the knock sensor: 1) Rachet; 2) Extender; 3) Socket Adapter; 4) 12mm Socket.
This is a photo of the knock sensor. It's the used one. The new one is exactly the same, but looks better. I should have shot a photo of the new one instead. But I've already installed it before shooting the photos.
Amazing documentation, I just experienced the same error code and this perfectly lays out all the details. Thanks so much. If you have any other follow up info (I know it was several years back), I would be interested in hearing about it. Thanks!
Hi Steve, I have no other follow up info, other than that it has worked great since I fixed it. No more DTC P0328 code for the past two and half years.
Hi Steve, Great article, consise and to the point. Hopefully with your pointers my P0328 code fault (if it reapears of having it reste) will prove just as easy to fix. BTW I have a UK Impreza GX 2001.
Thanks for taking the time to write and update this article. It is very helpful.
@ Chieh Cheng: At very high ohm ratings such as the knock sensor, the meter will read resistance through your body and give you erroneous readings. Make sure not to touch both meter probes to your skin or the meter will see this... ;-)
Also in my case, the knock sensor was just fine. Turns out the connector was the problem. When I went to open the connector the wire on the harness side pulled right out. The little plastic tooth that holds the connector in place was nowhere to be found. Fortunately, this is a two wire connector with one side unused. I carefully moved the knock sensor wire to the other side of the connector and now everything works great.
Johnny the Greek
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